Tuesday, May 21, 2019

May 21 - A walk to La Coupee and Little Sark

He said:
On our first full day we decided to go south to the dramatic La Coupee section of road between Big Sark and Little Sark.  Yes, there are two Sarks joined together by a thin strip of land with steep drops to the sea on either side of a 12' wide single lane.  Quite a dramatic place with great views.

Onto Little Sark, with old Silver and Copper mines, and stone age sculptures.

I also took two solo exploratory hikes, one in the morning and one in the evening.  The place seems deserted during these times, whereas midday is much busier.  In the morning I went to the east side seeing mostly farms and a place to dig and grind stones, then I went to see Dixcart Bay.  In the evening, I went to the village and then on to see the lighthouse on the northeast side.  I never saw the lighthouse due to some mixed up street signs.

After 11PM, I also went out to see how dark the skies are, and I did see many stars, but I suspect that the moon rise had started having been full May 18.  Since there are no streetlights on Sark, you need a flashlight to see



She said:
We started out down the country road and
immediately came to a place of interest - an old stone Mill Tower from 1571. Of course, we went inside. We have come to know that, in the countryside, everything is at our own risk.
Steep stairs up to each narrow landing with a ladder up to the very top. Never mind that I had to hold onto the old iron railings for dear life. Climbing up there made me feel young!
And, great views.

The day was glorious. Sunny, but with a gentle breeze. We walked by another couple who seemed equally taken by the beauty of the day. She described it perfectly - it makes my heart sing.

I was so moved by all I saw and felt today.

I don’t know if I have enough superlatives to describe today, but I will try. Photos will certainly help.

We walked to Little Sark, a tiny island next to regular Sark.
Little Sark is accessed by a high, narrow, walking causeway over a sharp, sheer-drops-on-either-side-down-to-beautiful-coves-of-tropically-colored-water cliffs.
Now it has railings on either side, built by the Nazis (with slave prisoner-of-war labor).
Before that, on particularly windy days, kids who lived on Little Sark had to crawl to school on their hands and knees across the causeway so they wouldn’t get blown into the water.
Yikes.

The views are jaw-dropping. Long views to Jersey and Guernsey. Water views with picture-perfect white sailboats. Wild flowers in bloom on the cliffs and hillsides.
Secluded bays. A blue, blue sky.
And, of course, no cars anywhere.

I have seen many amazing things in my life, and Little Sark is right up there with the best.

We continued on to magnificent views around every corner. Meadows. Country lanes. Cows and sheep. Pheasant. Even some humorous art - a giant Adirondack Chair looking out to sea.

There are only 2 hotels on Sark - ours and the one on Little Sark, with a gorgeous tea garden and a snug bar.

Silvers mines back in the day (not too successful), but their chimney stacks still stand. Must have been a hard and isolated life.

But, people have been around on Little Sark since 5000 BC, and held it as a sacred place. We followed a narrow path out to a Neolithic megalith, positioned perfectly, looking out to a particularly spectacular view of rocks, cliffs and the sea.
Once again, how did they get those huge stones there?

A lazy stroll back to our hotel. Birdsong all the way (and continuing now).

I opened all the windows in our suite and had a fine Yoga session, listening to the constant birdsong.

R took a solo photography walk and, I’m sure, was in his own Nirvana.

I am so grateful.

Total Mileage:
5.8 miles
Add 3 miles for R






Old Windmill from AD 1751









The road to Little Sark




La Coupee, the bridge between Big and Little Sark



















On Little Sark





The area of silver and copper mines near the south tip of Little Sark









A stone age monument







Pheasants are skittish on Sark




La Corbiere Lighthouse on Jersey across the channel





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